The Sumida-gawa Fireworks Show.
Aug. 3rd, 2008 09:51 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
sechan19Ye gods, what a beautiful day.
I’ve always had the phrase “nothing ventured, nothing gained” as my personal motto. After today, I’d like to add another one, however, that goes somewhat hand in hand with the aforementioned:
“In this world, there is no substitute for doing.”
A year ago I was introduced, via Takako and Paul, to a very lovely girl named Yoko. She and I exchanged email addresses and kept up an acquaintance online over the course of the year. At one point, we promised each other that we would attend a summer fireworks show together when I returned to Japan. Last Saturday, we kept that promise.
The day began quite auspiciously. I donned my yukata (summer kimono) with tremendous care, taking quite a bit of time over the obi bow--which is tricky. When I was ready, I went to my dorm mother, Mrs. Nakamura, and asked her to check me over. She did so, fiddling the obi bow to perfection and exclaiming over my skill at dressing in yukata.
Mrs. Nakamura noted that I had no adornment for my hair, and when I explained that I had only black hair ties she immediately disappeared into her quarters and returned moments later with a lovely hair clip. She fixed it in my hair and then informed me that it was a present. Considering that I had earlier in the month given the Nakamuras a small gift from my Yamanashi trip, I knew better than to refuse. I thanked her heartily and made my way to Tsukiji station, the appointed meeting place.
At Tsukiji, I was met by Yoko and her older sister, Sayaka, who lives in Tokyo with their grandmother. We introduced ourselves and then headed above ground to the labyrinthine pathways of the Tsukiji Fish Market. At every step we were assailed by delicious smells and wild sights--stalls arrayed by turns with live seafood, fresh fruits and vegetables, and an assortment of dried snacks. There were temples and shrines around every narrow corner, tourists clamoring for our picture along every wayside, and someone cheerfully attempting to sell us something at every turn. We browsed, but avoided temptation, until our appetites were properly whetted, and then we dined on out-of-this-world sushi.
We each ordered an array (my selection was salmon, tuna, scallop, shrimp, and yam) at least one item of which was maki zushi (sushi rolls) so that we could share. I shared the yam and got natto (fermented soy bean) and kani miso (pureed crab and miso) in exchange. Everything was exquisite.
We stopped by a little stand selling traditional Japanese handkerchiefs and looked through them all. I was particularly struck by an adorable little fireworks-motif handkerchief, but I walked away from it. Halfway down the street, I realized it was a bad idea and asked the girls if we could go back so I could buy it. We returned forthwith, but Sayaka insisted on buying it for me as a souvenir. As the day progressed, I was very happy to have the handkerchief for wiping away sweat, drying my hands, keeping my yukata clean while eating, and other various things.
We left Tsukiji and headed for Asakusa for a ramble through the Nakamise Dori and a look at the Senso Temple. As we reached Kaminari Gate, right at the head of Nakamise Dori, we were assailed by rickshaw-runners who wanted us to purchase a sight-seeing trip in their vehicle. One rather funny-looking gentleman was particularly forcible in his pitch, but we declined and then (I’m chagrined to admit) laughed the poor fellow to disdain the minute he was out of earshot. But he was such an odd personage--in both countenance and demeanor!
On Nakamise Dori we stopped for ice cream, and I found the elusive kuro goma (black sesame) that I had been told about by Aki. I ordered it and wolfed it. It was delicious. Yoko had citron and Sayaka had almond, and we each sampled each other’s choices. All were simply yummy.
After our brief tour through the absolutely thronged Nakamise and Senso-ji, we headed for the Sumida River in search of a place to camp out by way of a coffee shop, where we relaxed in the cool, air conditioned, splendor and drank incredibly over-priced tea. The riverside was utterly packed by the time we arrived around 4:30, and we wandered for at least an hour weighing our options. Eventually we crossed the river and found a place under an overpass, and next to a road, that afforded a decent view and pitched camp.
Our luck was really in, though. At 6:00, the street in front of us was closed to traffic in preparation for the fireworks, and we (along with any number of other expectant fireworks spectators) made a mad, laughter-filled dash for the best spot on the flatland. We scored a fabulous place to spread our blanket, and begin planning our dinner.
About fifty minutes before start time, when the test fires were being cheerfully launched over the water, we left our camp for the food stalls a few blocks over. Yoko secured the main dishes, yakisoba and yakitako, Sayaka took care of the snacks, various onigiri, dried squid, rice crackers, and more, and I supplied the beer. All in all, we dined as richly as any three girls who pooled their petty cash could.
Yakitako is an especially tasty dish. Originating near Osaka, the dish consists of dumplings baked to perfection, stuffed with grilled octopus, and served with a judicious dab of mayonnaise. (Have I ever mentioned how much the Japanese love mayonnaise? It’s like what ketchup is to Americans… they put it on everything: even pizza.) I loved the dish from bite one and ate more than my fare share of it.
The fireworks show itself was beyond description. It lasted over an hour, and in the course of that hour more than twenty-thousand fireworks were set off--nearly ten-thousand during the finale alone. Sayaka declared that she loved the gold-colored ones best, while Yoko leaned toward the variety that trickles down like a rain shower, and I claimed the sparklers as my true love. There were a number of each, as well as a few that rained down in twinkling golden showers to please us all simultaneously. As they sparked and flashed, we discussed a variety of topics--often geared toward linguistic understanding. I was happy to be as helpful to them with English as they were being to me with Japanese.
We made our way to the bridge just before the finale, partly to enhance our view and partly to beat the seething crowd out of the park. Our lively steps served us well, and we were back across the river in record time. However, finding that we weren’t quite through with our fireworks mood (astonishingly), we found a quiet street in Asakusa to set off a few handheld sparklers and innocuous ground blooms in a private party. Then we booked it for the train station, where we were to part ways.
Yoko and I both agreed that keeping a promise of that nature is entirely too much fun, so we made a new promise. Next year, when I’m back for my year of study, I’ll be going to Nikko with her in October to watch the fall colors. Then she’ll come to Tokyo for another visit, and the three of us will hit a karaoke bar. (Because no two things on this earth match quite as well as fall leaf viewing and karaoke, you know.) In the meantime, it’s back to our faithful email correspondence.
All in all, it was a day worth waiting a year for, and I suspect our next get-together will be just as rewarding.
I’ve always had the phrase “nothing ventured, nothing gained” as my personal motto. After today, I’d like to add another one, however, that goes somewhat hand in hand with the aforementioned:
“In this world, there is no substitute for doing.”
A year ago I was introduced, via Takako and Paul, to a very lovely girl named Yoko. She and I exchanged email addresses and kept up an acquaintance online over the course of the year. At one point, we promised each other that we would attend a summer fireworks show together when I returned to Japan. Last Saturday, we kept that promise.
The day began quite auspiciously. I donned my yukata (summer kimono) with tremendous care, taking quite a bit of time over the obi bow--which is tricky. When I was ready, I went to my dorm mother, Mrs. Nakamura, and asked her to check me over. She did so, fiddling the obi bow to perfection and exclaiming over my skill at dressing in yukata.
Mrs. Nakamura noted that I had no adornment for my hair, and when I explained that I had only black hair ties she immediately disappeared into her quarters and returned moments later with a lovely hair clip. She fixed it in my hair and then informed me that it was a present. Considering that I had earlier in the month given the Nakamuras a small gift from my Yamanashi trip, I knew better than to refuse. I thanked her heartily and made my way to Tsukiji station, the appointed meeting place.
At Tsukiji, I was met by Yoko and her older sister, Sayaka, who lives in Tokyo with their grandmother. We introduced ourselves and then headed above ground to the labyrinthine pathways of the Tsukiji Fish Market. At every step we were assailed by delicious smells and wild sights--stalls arrayed by turns with live seafood, fresh fruits and vegetables, and an assortment of dried snacks. There were temples and shrines around every narrow corner, tourists clamoring for our picture along every wayside, and someone cheerfully attempting to sell us something at every turn. We browsed, but avoided temptation, until our appetites were properly whetted, and then we dined on out-of-this-world sushi.
We each ordered an array (my selection was salmon, tuna, scallop, shrimp, and yam) at least one item of which was maki zushi (sushi rolls) so that we could share. I shared the yam and got natto (fermented soy bean) and kani miso (pureed crab and miso) in exchange. Everything was exquisite.
We stopped by a little stand selling traditional Japanese handkerchiefs and looked through them all. I was particularly struck by an adorable little fireworks-motif handkerchief, but I walked away from it. Halfway down the street, I realized it was a bad idea and asked the girls if we could go back so I could buy it. We returned forthwith, but Sayaka insisted on buying it for me as a souvenir. As the day progressed, I was very happy to have the handkerchief for wiping away sweat, drying my hands, keeping my yukata clean while eating, and other various things.
We left Tsukiji and headed for Asakusa for a ramble through the Nakamise Dori and a look at the Senso Temple. As we reached Kaminari Gate, right at the head of Nakamise Dori, we were assailed by rickshaw-runners who wanted us to purchase a sight-seeing trip in their vehicle. One rather funny-looking gentleman was particularly forcible in his pitch, but we declined and then (I’m chagrined to admit) laughed the poor fellow to disdain the minute he was out of earshot. But he was such an odd personage--in both countenance and demeanor!
On Nakamise Dori we stopped for ice cream, and I found the elusive kuro goma (black sesame) that I had been told about by Aki. I ordered it and wolfed it. It was delicious. Yoko had citron and Sayaka had almond, and we each sampled each other’s choices. All were simply yummy.
After our brief tour through the absolutely thronged Nakamise and Senso-ji, we headed for the Sumida River in search of a place to camp out by way of a coffee shop, where we relaxed in the cool, air conditioned, splendor and drank incredibly over-priced tea. The riverside was utterly packed by the time we arrived around 4:30, and we wandered for at least an hour weighing our options. Eventually we crossed the river and found a place under an overpass, and next to a road, that afforded a decent view and pitched camp.
Our luck was really in, though. At 6:00, the street in front of us was closed to traffic in preparation for the fireworks, and we (along with any number of other expectant fireworks spectators) made a mad, laughter-filled dash for the best spot on the flatland. We scored a fabulous place to spread our blanket, and begin planning our dinner.
About fifty minutes before start time, when the test fires were being cheerfully launched over the water, we left our camp for the food stalls a few blocks over. Yoko secured the main dishes, yakisoba and yakitako, Sayaka took care of the snacks, various onigiri, dried squid, rice crackers, and more, and I supplied the beer. All in all, we dined as richly as any three girls who pooled their petty cash could.
Yakitako is an especially tasty dish. Originating near Osaka, the dish consists of dumplings baked to perfection, stuffed with grilled octopus, and served with a judicious dab of mayonnaise. (Have I ever mentioned how much the Japanese love mayonnaise? It’s like what ketchup is to Americans… they put it on everything: even pizza.) I loved the dish from bite one and ate more than my fare share of it.
The fireworks show itself was beyond description. It lasted over an hour, and in the course of that hour more than twenty-thousand fireworks were set off--nearly ten-thousand during the finale alone. Sayaka declared that she loved the gold-colored ones best, while Yoko leaned toward the variety that trickles down like a rain shower, and I claimed the sparklers as my true love. There were a number of each, as well as a few that rained down in twinkling golden showers to please us all simultaneously. As they sparked and flashed, we discussed a variety of topics--often geared toward linguistic understanding. I was happy to be as helpful to them with English as they were being to me with Japanese.
We made our way to the bridge just before the finale, partly to enhance our view and partly to beat the seething crowd out of the park. Our lively steps served us well, and we were back across the river in record time. However, finding that we weren’t quite through with our fireworks mood (astonishingly), we found a quiet street in Asakusa to set off a few handheld sparklers and innocuous ground blooms in a private party. Then we booked it for the train station, where we were to part ways.
Yoko and I both agreed that keeping a promise of that nature is entirely too much fun, so we made a new promise. Next year, when I’m back for my year of study, I’ll be going to Nikko with her in October to watch the fall colors. Then she’ll come to Tokyo for another visit, and the three of us will hit a karaoke bar. (Because no two things on this earth match quite as well as fall leaf viewing and karaoke, you know.) In the meantime, it’s back to our faithful email correspondence.
All in all, it was a day worth waiting a year for, and I suspect our next get-together will be just as rewarding.
