Day Thirteen - Tokyo.
Aug. 3rd, 2009 05:53 amI traveled with the rain, and had a waterlogged first day back in Tokyo. Eunja and I met in Ueno Park at 10am and made our way to the Tokyo National Museum, which was having an exhibit on Ise Shrine - its history and prized objects.
I had been aware of the renewal of the Ise Shrine that takes place every twenty years, but I had not considered that such a renewal does not merely comprise the reconstruction of the inner shrine precinct (naiku), but also the refashioning of every ritual object that is enshrined in the space as well: kimono, weapons, armor, spinning tools, mirrors, makeup, and so on. Like the timber-framed signature structures of Ise (seen only in photographs by the average man), the ritual implements - too - are recreated every twenty years according to techniques passed down from generation to generation of family artisans.
In the past, used ritual objects were consigned to fire - as it was believed that they were far too sacred to ever be seen by ordinary man. But in the twentieth century, after several key finds of older, fire-damaged pieces, this concept began to change. Now, even peons like me can view them in the museum setting. And they are incredible. One sword hilt - in the Kamakura court fashion - was encrusted with more than 500 individual jewels.
After touring the special exhibition, we wandered through select galleries of Japanese art - particularly the painting section. The Willows and Waterwheels set of folding screens was on view, which was a particular treat. I really think I ought to consider becoming a museum member this coming year. I love the Tokyo National Museum.
We had lunch in the station afterward, as neither of us felt like walking about in the rain. (It was really coming down, and Eunja teased me for being a "rain girl." I seem to have taken the rain with me everywhere this trip.) I shared my Kyoto photos with Eunja, and she immediately noticed the incredible abundance of pictures of temples. I admitted to being kind of tired of temples.
It seems awful to say, but I am really sick and tired of temples at the moment. I just saw way too many of them last week, and one of them ate my cellphone, too. Not endearing.
Eh, I'll like them again in a month.
Our visit was short, as I was still really exhausted from my Kyoto trip and that was apparently obvious from the way I was walking. Eunja commented that my gait wasn't up to its usual genkiness. We parted ways around 2pm, and I went back to the hostel for some aspirin and a nap - both of which worked wonders.
I had been aware of the renewal of the Ise Shrine that takes place every twenty years, but I had not considered that such a renewal does not merely comprise the reconstruction of the inner shrine precinct (naiku), but also the refashioning of every ritual object that is enshrined in the space as well: kimono, weapons, armor, spinning tools, mirrors, makeup, and so on. Like the timber-framed signature structures of Ise (seen only in photographs by the average man), the ritual implements - too - are recreated every twenty years according to techniques passed down from generation to generation of family artisans.
In the past, used ritual objects were consigned to fire - as it was believed that they were far too sacred to ever be seen by ordinary man. But in the twentieth century, after several key finds of older, fire-damaged pieces, this concept began to change. Now, even peons like me can view them in the museum setting. And they are incredible. One sword hilt - in the Kamakura court fashion - was encrusted with more than 500 individual jewels.
After touring the special exhibition, we wandered through select galleries of Japanese art - particularly the painting section. The Willows and Waterwheels set of folding screens was on view, which was a particular treat. I really think I ought to consider becoming a museum member this coming year. I love the Tokyo National Museum.
We had lunch in the station afterward, as neither of us felt like walking about in the rain. (It was really coming down, and Eunja teased me for being a "rain girl." I seem to have taken the rain with me everywhere this trip.) I shared my Kyoto photos with Eunja, and she immediately noticed the incredible abundance of pictures of temples. I admitted to being kind of tired of temples.
It seems awful to say, but I am really sick and tired of temples at the moment. I just saw way too many of them last week, and one of them ate my cellphone, too. Not endearing.
Eh, I'll like them again in a month.
Our visit was short, as I was still really exhausted from my Kyoto trip and that was apparently obvious from the way I was walking. Eunja commented that my gait wasn't up to its usual genkiness. We parted ways around 2pm, and I went back to the hostel for some aspirin and a nap - both of which worked wonders.