Peaceful Rambles at Japan's War Shrine.
May. 3rd, 2007 05:38 pmI betook myself yesterday on a long walk along Tokyo's Yasukuni dori Avenue, ending at the famed Yasukuni shrine. For those of you who read my thesis, Yasukuni figured prominently in that work as an example of how modern Japanese continue to relate to issues of death and the supernatural. I was very eager to visit the shrine myself and discover it on a first-hand basis.
My visit there was delightful and surprising. Rather than finding even a single hint of the controversy that the foreign press loves to assign to Yasukuni (which is Japan's war shrine - honoring those who fought and died for the nation, including a number of Class-A war criminals much to the international community's chagrin), I found only peaceful tranquility. Families sprinkled fish food into the coi pond, while children laughing looked on. Elderly women swapped giggling gossip in the gardens. The faithful quietly communed with the Kami. The connotations I expected the place to exude in actuality formed no part of the essence of Yasukuni, and I was wholeheartedly delighted with it. I hope to return and make it one of my spots. It's proximity to my school makes it a very desirable haunt, and more than that I felt a deep connection to the spot.
I sat in the garden for half-an-hour, watching visitors come and go, and then I made my way to the shrine - where I gave offerings and prayed, clapping my hands to get the attention of the Kami and bowing to them in deep respect and love. Shintoism very much suits me - as it reflects my belief that God has many faces. I like the multi-headed face of God that I find in Shinto, and I value being able to love a rock or a tree (or a lamppost) as much as I love the infinite unknowable.
My visit there was delightful and surprising. Rather than finding even a single hint of the controversy that the foreign press loves to assign to Yasukuni (which is Japan's war shrine - honoring those who fought and died for the nation, including a number of Class-A war criminals much to the international community's chagrin), I found only peaceful tranquility. Families sprinkled fish food into the coi pond, while children laughing looked on. Elderly women swapped giggling gossip in the gardens. The faithful quietly communed with the Kami. The connotations I expected the place to exude in actuality formed no part of the essence of Yasukuni, and I was wholeheartedly delighted with it. I hope to return and make it one of my spots. It's proximity to my school makes it a very desirable haunt, and more than that I felt a deep connection to the spot.
I sat in the garden for half-an-hour, watching visitors come and go, and then I made my way to the shrine - where I gave offerings and prayed, clapping my hands to get the attention of the Kami and bowing to them in deep respect and love. Shintoism very much suits me - as it reflects my belief that God has many faces. I like the multi-headed face of God that I find in Shinto, and I value being able to love a rock or a tree (or a lamppost) as much as I love the infinite unknowable.
Re: HOnor the Dead
Date: 2007-05-05 01:29 am (UTC)In terms of the museum displays, I did not visit there and consequently cannot attest to their present condition. I suspect, however, that it is probably as much as it ever was. Revisionist history is a folly of all nations, great and small, and I have no reason to suspect the Japanese of being any less subject to its whims than anyone else in the world.
Nevertheless, even excepting the presence of such revisionist history in the museum located there, I still would not consider the shrine as being nothing but an attempt to ennoble Japan's action in WWII. Such a black-or-white view of the shrine's role in the life of contemporary Japanese is too narrow to have realistic purchase in an academic argument. Undoubtedly, that aspect of Yasukuni's function does exist. In fact, that aspect is more than clear in the literature of the shrine in its website and (most likely) in any pamphlets of guidebooks handed out by the shrine and museum. But such a function is not the sum total of the shrine's meaning or purpose in the modern world, and I wish that more people would consider its additional roles when discussing its value at large. That's all. =]
Re: HOnor the Dead
Date: 2007-05-05 02:01 am (UTC)the articles also contain translations of the letters/diaries and words of the war criminals to their families
the writer is a Japanese scholar encouraged by her brother to share this information to the world (as her work is unpopular in Japan)
she provided a statistical analyses as well of their written words citing 1-2 Class B or Class C criminals who somewhat expressed remorse (not over the war but over their role in the deaths of civilians)
Class A war criminals such as Tojo in no place in his written material expressed guilt or regret over the death of civilians...he wanted to be a hardcore martyr
and Yasukuni has made him that
Please understand why many would abhhor the thought that a kami would dwell with Tojo
the "narrov" view which you have subscribed to my interpretation can be dispelled with a survey done amongst Japanese worshippers...few have any concept of the crimes committed by the enshrined military leaders
and as you probably know Japanese families who ASKED THAT THEIR sons be removed from the shrine are NOT allowed to
their sons are property of Japan
if you delve in deeper into Yasukuni you will find efforts of these families---they want to separate their sons from war criminals but they can't
it is the blurring of the good and bad
not seeing a shrine as black and white
these are the facts I have personally come across in plain old Eng.
enjoy the rest of your time in Japan
Re: HOnor the Dead
Date: 2007-05-05 07:31 am (UTC)Thanks for your well wishes! I'm sure that I will continue to love it here. And I look forward to any of your future commentary on my travels.