Peaceful Rambles at Japan's War Shrine.
May. 3rd, 2007 05:38 pmI betook myself yesterday on a long walk along Tokyo's Yasukuni dori Avenue, ending at the famed Yasukuni shrine. For those of you who read my thesis, Yasukuni figured prominently in that work as an example of how modern Japanese continue to relate to issues of death and the supernatural. I was very eager to visit the shrine myself and discover it on a first-hand basis.
My visit there was delightful and surprising. Rather than finding even a single hint of the controversy that the foreign press loves to assign to Yasukuni (which is Japan's war shrine - honoring those who fought and died for the nation, including a number of Class-A war criminals much to the international community's chagrin), I found only peaceful tranquility. Families sprinkled fish food into the coi pond, while children laughing looked on. Elderly women swapped giggling gossip in the gardens. The faithful quietly communed with the Kami. The connotations I expected the place to exude in actuality formed no part of the essence of Yasukuni, and I was wholeheartedly delighted with it. I hope to return and make it one of my spots. It's proximity to my school makes it a very desirable haunt, and more than that I felt a deep connection to the spot.
I sat in the garden for half-an-hour, watching visitors come and go, and then I made my way to the shrine - where I gave offerings and prayed, clapping my hands to get the attention of the Kami and bowing to them in deep respect and love. Shintoism very much suits me - as it reflects my belief that God has many faces. I like the multi-headed face of God that I find in Shinto, and I value being able to love a rock or a tree (or a lamppost) as much as I love the infinite unknowable.
My visit there was delightful and surprising. Rather than finding even a single hint of the controversy that the foreign press loves to assign to Yasukuni (which is Japan's war shrine - honoring those who fought and died for the nation, including a number of Class-A war criminals much to the international community's chagrin), I found only peaceful tranquility. Families sprinkled fish food into the coi pond, while children laughing looked on. Elderly women swapped giggling gossip in the gardens. The faithful quietly communed with the Kami. The connotations I expected the place to exude in actuality formed no part of the essence of Yasukuni, and I was wholeheartedly delighted with it. I hope to return and make it one of my spots. It's proximity to my school makes it a very desirable haunt, and more than that I felt a deep connection to the spot.
I sat in the garden for half-an-hour, watching visitors come and go, and then I made my way to the shrine - where I gave offerings and prayed, clapping my hands to get the attention of the Kami and bowing to them in deep respect and love. Shintoism very much suits me - as it reflects my belief that God has many faces. I like the multi-headed face of God that I find in Shinto, and I value being able to love a rock or a tree (or a lamppost) as much as I love the infinite unknowable.
Re: Hello
Date: 2007-05-04 05:14 pm (UTC)Japanese scholars would be harassed were they to come out and write against the "master narrative". Some publish critical works in US or European presses.
Thus, a foreign scholar should not make it a goal to "be" that culture when it is actually impossible.
HOnor the Dead
Date: 2007-05-04 05:24 pm (UTC)Were the kami to gravitate to those who are pure and become one with them, I doubt they would accept the likes of Tojo.
Re: HOnor the Dead
Date: 2007-05-04 09:16 pm (UTC)Additionally, the shrine honors thousands of men who gave their lives for the nation, and regardless of what side of a conflict a nation may be on I think it has a right to appreciate the sacrifices (however misguided) of the men (and as we move into the 21st century - the women) who served in wartime. As a parallel example, I would never have a problem with a memorial to the soldiers who have died in the present Iraqi conflict - even though I consider that conflict to be completely illegal and immoral - and I would not see a tribute to them as being necessarily a tribute to the conflict itself.
It's also worth considering that Yasukuni itself was not constructed with the purpose of honoring the soldiers of WWII. It has been a shrine dedicated to war dead since 1869. The museum located there is another story entirely - being a newer addition and having far more questionable motives of operation.
Thanks for the comments. Please keep them coming! I'm very curious to read Donald Calman's work, and I appreciate you making me aware of him.
Re: HOnor the Dead
Date: 2007-05-04 09:23 pm (UTC)Re: HOnor the Dead
Date: 2007-05-05 12:55 am (UTC)My point is a shrine to the *victims* of the IMperial Army although a sane move for you or I, would be UNTHINKABLE to the Japanese.
Even Peter Williams' documentary on UNIT 731 shows a shrine to guinea pigs sacrificed to labs in Japan.
There are no shrines to the Allied Troops nor countless Chinese killed in the biowarfare lab run by Ishii (fully sanctioned by Hirohito's brother, later Ishii worked for the US gov).
We know that it is good and dandy that restless spirits are laid to rest (there are countless shrines to the Shinsengumi---usually constructed not by the enemy but by sympathizers)...the conclusion is...you get a shrine if you fought and died on THEIR SIDE and follow the MASTER NARRATIVE still spouted in schools and a handful of revisionist texts and conservative politicians.
Peace and love in Yasukuni and appreciation of the likes of Tojo.
The Japanese can embrace Tojo for now he is not an "individual" but one with martyrs which he helped brainwashed. Those young kamikaze pilots did not die only in defense of their country, they died because since their childhood the educational system helped made them more susceptible to the military machine.
One can appreciate the sacrifice, however one must admit the majority of the Japanese whilst communing with the kami have no interest in facing the truth of their past, that is why few of them are willing to fight for historical accuracy
If you have a chance to see youtube simply search for TAMAGAWABOAT , who like other right wing nuts encourage Japanese to worship at Yasukuni not to seek purity, but to revere the honorable men who led their country into a glorious war.
The fact that nutcases like him hijack Yasukuni (and Japanese have no problem with them doing so) speaks volumes of how complacent they have become.
Re: HOnor the Dead
Date: 2007-05-05 01:03 am (UTC)That is why I ask visitors to take photos of the adjoining mini-museum which still is completely a revisionist portrayal of WWII
have they corrected the displays?
If they have not, that display and the shrine is as I said, part of the agenda to paint WWII as a heroic war on the part of the Japanese
If those displays are not corrected then clearly, the shrine is part of the process
The entire Japanese relationship to the dead must be understood when considering the problem of Yasukuni. This is not mere ancestor worship - this is the quieting of restless spirits (spirits whose violent deaths may have left them agitated and potentially dangerous) who might otherwise cause harm to the country as a whole. The entire idea of the war shrine centers on an ingrained sense of national obligation to the dead.
I am familiar with ancestor worship and the familial and national obligation to the dead. Now, they should be obligated to quiet the Indian soldiers cannibalized by the Imperial Army.
To note, I have never met a professor of Japanese studies who would take the stance that Yasukuni is not an attempt to make noble WWII.
Even those who strive hard to understand Japan are saddened by this shrines ongoing role.
In the past I have scanned and publicly provided academic essays (also written by Japanese scholars) who denounce the shrine and how it causes people to misinterpret Shintoism.
Re: HOnor the Dead
Date: 2007-05-05 01:29 am (UTC)In terms of the museum displays, I did not visit there and consequently cannot attest to their present condition. I suspect, however, that it is probably as much as it ever was. Revisionist history is a folly of all nations, great and small, and I have no reason to suspect the Japanese of being any less subject to its whims than anyone else in the world.
Nevertheless, even excepting the presence of such revisionist history in the museum located there, I still would not consider the shrine as being nothing but an attempt to ennoble Japan's action in WWII. Such a black-or-white view of the shrine's role in the life of contemporary Japanese is too narrow to have realistic purchase in an academic argument. Undoubtedly, that aspect of Yasukuni's function does exist. In fact, that aspect is more than clear in the literature of the shrine in its website and (most likely) in any pamphlets of guidebooks handed out by the shrine and museum. But such a function is not the sum total of the shrine's meaning or purpose in the modern world, and I wish that more people would consider its additional roles when discussing its value at large. That's all. =]
Re: HOnor the Dead
Date: 2007-05-05 02:01 am (UTC)the articles also contain translations of the letters/diaries and words of the war criminals to their families
the writer is a Japanese scholar encouraged by her brother to share this information to the world (as her work is unpopular in Japan)
she provided a statistical analyses as well of their written words citing 1-2 Class B or Class C criminals who somewhat expressed remorse (not over the war but over their role in the deaths of civilians)
Class A war criminals such as Tojo in no place in his written material expressed guilt or regret over the death of civilians...he wanted to be a hardcore martyr
and Yasukuni has made him that
Please understand why many would abhhor the thought that a kami would dwell with Tojo
the "narrov" view which you have subscribed to my interpretation can be dispelled with a survey done amongst Japanese worshippers...few have any concept of the crimes committed by the enshrined military leaders
and as you probably know Japanese families who ASKED THAT THEIR sons be removed from the shrine are NOT allowed to
their sons are property of Japan
if you delve in deeper into Yasukuni you will find efforts of these families---they want to separate their sons from war criminals but they can't
it is the blurring of the good and bad
not seeing a shrine as black and white
these are the facts I have personally come across in plain old Eng.
enjoy the rest of your time in Japan
Re: HOnor the Dead
Date: 2007-05-05 07:31 am (UTC)Thanks for your well wishes! I'm sure that I will continue to love it here. And I look forward to any of your future commentary on my travels.